Seventy-three year old Paul Watts discusses his passion for surfing in a series of ‘surf diaries’ sent to his granddaughter from halfway across the world.
In a world where millions of people are living longer than they ever have before, the question of what to do with one’s retirement is a perennial one.
Surfing, while popular, can be a very dangerous sport – forcing its enthusiasts to come to terms with their place in the natural world.
In this piece, however, Paul takes a different view: finding instead an arena in which one can ‘play’ with nature, and develop a deeper understanding of both the natural world and ourselves.
This piece was produced by Gabrielle (Ella) Watts.